COPPI & PASTE: Memories of Cycling

COPPI & PASTE aims at giving voice to the nar­ra­ti­ve threads con­nec­ting the world of (pro­fes­sio­nal) cycling. We will report on races, think about riders, visit the most famous roads, ride on our bikes and dream about it all in words and images.

Landscapes Becoming Liquid

by Vic­tor Morozov

One day I hop­ped on my steel bike – green, rus­ty, and as hea­vy as you like – and I rea­li­zed I was able to keep my balan­ce. The sce­ne is blur­ry, yet poignant. There’s my uncle, kee­ping the pace behind me. There’s that one way “gara­ge street” with rough tar­mac, the kind you used to see ever­y­whe­re in post-com­mu­nist Roma­nia. And then there’s that fee­ling, one that never gets old; the sheer ama­ze­ment of the land­scape beco­ming liquid, going cra­zy. Once, just once, I could hold the secret of it, ama­zed at the prin­ci­ple of ide­as beco­ming things, in the short lap­se bet­ween assis­ted move­ment – my uncle grab­bing the sadd­le – and the sta­bi­li­ty I estab­lished by my own force of will.

There’s pro­ba­b­ly more to the first solo bike ride – which is only just a cou­ple of meters long– than a mere cli­ché. This mono­to­ne dis­cour­se about the per­so­nal free­dom a bicy­cle is sup­po­sed to mira­cu­lous­ly enable pro­ves to be, at the same time, an exag­ge­ra­ti­on and an under­state­ment. Things are more com­pli­ca­ted than that; we can find a secret writ­ten in invi­si­ble ink throug­hout the histo­ry of each bicy­cle. A cou­ple of months ago I was con­vin­ced by some evi­dence to get a tube of sili­co­ne spray for my road bike. The­re was the stran­ge need to make this object – slen­der, light, robust – even more beau­tiful. The shame­l­ess pri­de was almost phy­si­cal. One year befo­re, after I bought the bike in a bour­geois vil­la­ge near Paris from an aging man who unloa­ded it from his cran­ky Peu­geot and told me with a sigh: “I’m done with le vélo”, I would watch it fur­tively, as if in fear of dis­co­ve­ring mys­elf an impostor, fil­ling a cor­ner of my emp­ty, sad stu­dent dorm. “My first road bike”, I thought, and to my mind came all the­se sepia pic­tures of rec­tan­gu­lar bicy­cle frames from a working-class France, all of them long gone by now. I was final­ly joi­ning the ima­gi­na­ry pelo­ton at a time when the bike, as a social acti­vi­ty, was once again gai­ning ter­rain (it’s unbe­lie­va­ble how the pan­de­mic prompt­ed peo­p­le to start com­mu­ting by bike in Paris), while simul­ta­neous­ly losing its soul. But that is ano­ther matter.

In the Roma­ni­an town whe­re I spent most of my life, bikes would come into your life befo­re cars: unhan­dy, ugly bikes that the boys could take for a Fri­day evening ride by the Danu­be. It was fun. We all had them: some had on “full” wheels for show, while others sty­led some stran­ge, com­ple­te­ly sen­se­l­ess drops for the hand­le­bars. Then the boys would grow up, dis­co­ver love, and for­get about the bike. By the time most of them were of age to dri­ve a car, no one would think any­mo­re of the so ade­qua­te­ly named “First Bike” (the most com­mon Roma­ni­an bike manu­fac­tu­rer of the time) and the memo­ries it brought. I mys­elf fol­lo­wed the desi­gna­ted path up to a point. Once or twice, around 14, I took part in the so-cal­led “Satur­day ride” that the local cycling club would orga­ni­ze weekly. I still remem­ber the fee­ling of belon­ging with the cool guys, as we would form a long chain and slow­ly cross the city cen­ter. The ride always finis­hed with a short but steep climb which, for me, acted as a wake-up call: I was the last one to reach the top, pan­ting, while the others would give me a dis­mis­si­ve look. Nowa­days I fol­low some of their accounts on my Stra­va app, and some­ti­mes we even get tog­e­ther for a ride in the coun­try­si­de. Some are now fire­figh­ters and engi­neers – back then their cheeks were red with acne, and they were alre­a­dy fight­ing gravity.

Lucki­ly, I had no inte­rest in get­ting a driver’s licen­se. It somehow made it easier for me to get back into cycling. During high school, I cle­ar­ly found it smar­ter to impress my swee­the­art by reci­ting a poem than by clim­bing a hill “en danseu­se”. I’d think twice now about that now, though. The­re was this very firm idea, instil­led by our tea­chers and by the enti­re socie­ty, to be honest, that some habits were appro­pria­te, while others were not. I could feel it, wit­hout rea­ding Bour­dieu, that lite­ra­tu­re was accep­ta­ble and sport wasn’t, at least for a young man desti­ned for a care­er in the cul­tu­ral field. (By a simi­lar logic, I cho­se to stu­dy cine­ma, a sort of ide­al mau­vais objet which, during tho­se years, still gave off a sul­fu­rous smell to some of my tea­chers.) Get­ting back in the sadd­le, in the after­math of a pain­ful break­up, also meant com­ple­ting the loop. Like cine­ma, alt­hough in grea­ter mea­su­re, sports are still loo­ked down on by a who­le ran­ge of intellec­tu­als. I skip their fall­a­cious reasons, for I don’t want to give any cre­dit to their igno­rance: it goes wit­hout say­ing, for ins­tance, that the mea­nings a foot­ball coach extra­cts from a match in front of him can achie­ve unsu­spec­ted levels of com­ple­xi­ty. On the other hand, sports fans only sel­dom have the oppor­tu­ni­ty to deve­lop a reflec­tion about their pas­si­on. This is why, nowa­days more than ever, pay­ing clo­se atten­ti­on to what a sport such as cycling does to us – in terms of image, ges­tu­re, pas­si­on – feels necessary.

Back in 2013, I read a book about a jour­na­list who had a long­time inte­rest in cycling, and was then assembling his dream bike. The frame was from Ral­eigh, the sadd­le was from Brooks… I don’t know how I would feel about this dan­dy posi­ti­on of his now, but I remem­ber the las­ting influence that this book had on me. Two years later, I would watch cycling races on Euro­s­port, just for the plea­su­re of the immersi­on into a bike-fil­led flow of images. Life for me, at the end of juni­or high, was as plot­less as a tran­si­ti­on stage from a grand tour. The­re was a form of abso­lu­te beau­ty inscri­bed into the frame, with its syn­the­tic explo­si­on of colors and the eerie equip­ment that cover­ed as much as it reve­a­led, which sud­den­ly didn’t requi­re any con­text at all. Inde­ed, I lacked all infor­ma­ti­on neces­sa­ry to estab­lish a mini­mal con­text, like what the names of the com­pe­ting teams were, how this stra­tegy game work­ed, what race was on, what the sport’s histo­ry was (I was no child of the doping con­tro­ver­sies), or even what a tech­ni­cal gui­de­line for the com­plex pro­gres­si­on of a cour­se par étapes was. Some names I recoll­ect vague­ly, like Val­ver­de, who was alre­a­dy “old”, or Bar­det, who had very bold moves, and also rode for a French team, so he stood away from big money…

I now hold tele­vi­sed cycling to be the chall­enge of truth for any pro­clai­med image ana­lyst. In terms of bore­dom, it doesn’t get any bet­ter than a five hour plain stage, when an indis­tinct mass of wheels gli­de through the arid val­leys of Oman or Anda­lu­sia, going on fore­ver. While we can easi­ly under­stand the point of tele­vi­sed foot­ball or ten­nis, one can­not help but won­der at the mas­si­ve audi­ence suc­cess of this endea­ring, if somehow per­plex­ing, enter­pri­se of recor­ding, under every pos­si­ble ang­le, kilo­me­ter after kilo­me­ter. Yet the epic qua­li­ty of a grand tour was by no means desti­ned for tele­vi­si­on, nor was it enhan­ced by its live broad­cast. Having star­ted as a pro­mo­ti­on event for a prin­ted jour­nal, the Tour de France would be nowhe­re near the mytho­lo­gi­cal exploit it has beco­me had it not been for the wri­ters and jour­na­lists who saw heroes and epi­cs whe­re pre­vious­ly the­re had only been repor­ta­ge. Could some of this enthu­si­asm be revi­ved in our age, when all the images have been seen and all the heroes have fal­len from grace, com­pro­mi­sed by sub­s­tances with angry names? Regard­less of the out­co­me, I think it’s worth a try.

© Vic­tor Morozov

The Yellow of Pirates

by Patrick Holzapfel

It took a long time until I was able to under­stand how the see­mingly weight­less move­ments of the cyclists I obser­ved on tele­vi­si­on were basi­cal­ly of the same natu­re as the pain­ful fid­ge­ting I under­took while strugg­ling on my own bike to get to school. My ima­gi­na­ti­on fol­lo­wed its very own cadence, and sud­den­ly I found mys­elf imi­ta­ting the ges­tu­res and move­ments I saw on tele­vi­si­on: lif­ting mys­elf abo­ve the sadd­le to acce­le­ra­te until my legs explo­ded, stret­ching while des­cen­ding, mer­ging onto the other side of the road right befo­re sprin­ting against a sur­pri­sed sheep gras­sing in the field next to whe­re I ima­gi­ned the Flam­me Rouge to be. As my father runs a bicy­cle shop, he was able to get me a few items that hel­ped to spark my ima­gi­na­ti­on fur­ther: sun­glas­ses, drin­king bot­t­les, hel­mets, shoes for my clip-less pedals (I lear­ned to fall and get up again), power gels, rain-jackets, spee­dos and most important­ly, the bike its­elf. It was shaped like my Pul­mo dex­ter, pitch black with a fire red sadd­le. Ever­y­thing about it smel­led like oil and blood and nobo­dy was allo­wed to touch it.

Ima­gi­na­ti­on was also key to my initia­ti­on into the world of pro­fes­sio­nal cycling, a world that had been blown away by a storm of hor­ri­ble betra­y­al and mora­li­stic witch-hunts as soon as I dis­co­ver­ed it. It’s all wort­hy of Greek myths, real­ly, but I don’t know who lives up on Olym­pus anymore.

I remem­ber strai­ned hours in front of a tiny tube tele­vi­si­on my grand­fa­ther put on top of a shelf in a cub­by­ho­le in his cot­ta­ge. It was 1997. The colours were hard­ly distin­gu­is­ha­ble on the screen far abo­ve me, but I was bare­ly able to make out a yel­low shirt in the midst of a moving ser­pent wea­ving through the most famous streets of Paris. I have never seen so many impres­si­ons of yel­low dots in my eyes as I did that night after spen­ding so long try­ing to find the one on that screen. They told me, “If he doesn’t fall, he will win.” I was sure he would fall. Even as a child, I’ve always been cer­tain of coming tra­ge­dies, and years later he real­ly would fall. He would fall so often until I couldn’t care any­mo­re. But in 1997 I cared and he didn’t fall. He crossed the finish line at the Champs-Ély­sées and the­re he was, in yellow.

The next thing I remem­ber is rain. Hea­vy rain and again I had to ima­gi­ne things. Due to the hea­vy rain the­re were no tele­vi­sed images from the road and tho­se com­pe­ting on it. Ins­tead I heard worried voices decla­ring: “Er hat einen Hun­ge­rast” (he hit a wall). He didn’t eat enough and it was cold and it rai­ned and he felt like shit and ano­ther man, much more inspi­ring, took the stage. He was bold and ever­y­bo­dy cal­led him a pira­te and he took the yel­low shirt I was still loo­king for with feve­rish eyes (both of us had feve­rish eyes). He real­ly see­med to be from ano­ther world. As he moved up moun­tain roads through cor­ri­dors of chee­ring peo­p­le, I obser­ved some­thing I unders­tood very well as a child: the reli­ef of clim­bing, which is the same as the reli­ef of gro­wing-up. When ingre­di­ents, oppon­ents, stra­te­gic thoughts, par­ents and the world are over­co­me in a pain­ful scream for reco­gni­ti­on, I real­ly felt joy for the pira­te in yel­low clim­bing with the fury of someone who is bound to lose ever­y­thing but inspi­res ever­y­bo­dy. The­re it was, Mount Olym­pus, even if only for a second, I saw it. The pira­te had con­que­r­ed it.

It was all beau­tiful bey­ond com­pre­hen­si­on. I didn’t under­stand any­thing about cycling but slow­ly I lear­ned a who­le new voca­bu­la­ry and more important­ly, I lear­ned about its myths and heroes, and some­thing took flight in me which hasn’t cea­sed to inspi­re my ima­gi­na­ti­on up to this day.