Balkanrouten: A Few Thoughts on Presence

“The sea­sons and the years came and went…and always…one was, as the crow flies, about 2,000 km away – but from whe­re? – and day by day hour by hour, with every beat of the pul­se, one lost more and more of one’s qua­li­ties, beca­me less com­pre­hen­si­ble to ones­elf, incre­asing­ly abs­tract.” (W.G. Sebald)

“Histo­ry shows that it is not only sen­se­l­ess and cruel, but also dif­fi­cult to sta­te who is a for­eig­ner.” (Clau­dio Magris)

In the ima­gi­na­ry of human kind, depar­tu­re is often asso­cia­ted with trans­for­ma­ti­on. Phy­si­cal depar­tu­re from one place to ano­ther, wha­te­ver it may be, car­ri­es the human con­scious­ness with it. But once the desti­na­ti­on has been rea­ched, espe­ci­al­ly if it is about to beco­me a per­ma­nent fix­tu­re for both body and mind, some­thing cracks. Almost like a bro­ken mir­ror, one part keeps reflec­ting the past as it drifts away while the other beco­mes a visi­on of a never-arri­ving future.

As with the title of Goran Dević’s film Buf­fet Žel­je­za­ra, writ­ten on a depar­ting bus in front of the epony­mous café facing clo­sure, a per­ma­nent rift is intro­du­ced into rea­li­ty. Con­ver­sa­ti­ons include and sur­round it, kno­wing­ly paving the way becau­se ano­ther depar­tu­re had alre­a­dy taken place. The steel mill in the Croa­ti­an town of Sisak is one of many sym­bols of deindus­tria­liza­ti­on brought about by the tran­si­ti­on from socia­lism to capi­ta­lism. The trains we keep hea­ring in the back­ground used to tra­vel far to bring gre­at num­bers of workers to the fac­to­ry. It is a for­mer Mec­ca, a relict on the brink of beco­ming fos­si­li­zed, as the num­e­rous pho­tos taken by a pas­ser-by in the film indi­ca­te. The way the café’s cus­to­mers tell sto­ries of the past could very well be the way they tell each other their dreams.

The ima­gi­na­ry of Eas­tern Euro­pe in cine­ma seems impo­ve­ris­hed – iron and rust are excel­lent pla­ce­hol­ders for its gray, drea­ry land­scapes. And yet, what do we see when we look over our should­ers? Peo­p­le living ever­y­whe­re. Peo­p­le living and des­pai­ring and rejoi­cing, peo­p­le moving and fly­ing and dis­ap­pearing. Peo­p­le car­ry­ing on and chan­ging, peo­p­le taking turns and swer­ving. The­re might be some­thing fatal in this look if it turns into not­hing more than a glan­ce. It is one thing to admi­re the sea of your sum­mer desti­na­ti­on and quite ano­ther to con­sider it a place whe­re life takes place all year-round. Humans are not abs­tract. The inha­bi­tants of Sisak are stran­ded, lite­ral­ly run aground. Now it is, once again, a mat­ter of lea­ving or sin­king fur­ther. The orches­tra of cri­ckets speaks of silence, aban­don­ment and emp­tin­ess, even lan­gu­or. Are the­se the same cri­ckets we hear in Zoran Tadić’s 1975 film Der­nek? It would be a mira­cle if the cri­ckets of the Dal­ma­ti­an hin­ter­land were to befri­end tho­se in Sisak-Mos­la­vina Coun­ty, so far away from the sea. Still, cri­ckets, with their own ima­gi­na­ry nar­ra­ti­ves, sing of depar­tures as much as for the depar­ted. For tho­se who tra­vel over­night on long roads enve­lo­ped in snow to reach what they may remem­ber dif­fer­ent­ly. For tho­se who board up the win­dows of their café pre­pa­ring them­sel­ves for the new in their late 50s. For tho­se who don’t know whe­re to go and stay.

And what of Ger­ma­ny? Is it the last Euro­pean para­di­se on earth, as many seem to belie­ve? A Ger­ma­ny that was a desti­na­ti­on in 1975 just as it is in 2017 and 2019, the one and the same – or has it chan­ged? What was the name of the coun­try again?

What do we recognize?

Spon­ge hun­ters in Rudolf Sremec’s films, miners deep underground.

Rea­li­ty reinven­ting its­elf in Ivan Ladis­lav Galeta’s shots bey­ond any gravity.

Anti­film. Miho­vil Pansi­ni. Let it be a cloud.

Per­for­ma­ti­ve rup­tures of San­ja Ive­ko­vić, cut­ting across our bones.

The clo­sen­ess of distance in the poe­tic eye of Ivan Martinac.

The dawn of Ante Babaja.

What do we see?